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Rock & Rye

A Drink On The Rocks…..

Month

November 2011

MxMo LXIII: Retro Redemption

Well, it’s time for Mixology Monday once again. This month is being hosted by the esteemed Jacob Greer who pens the Liquidity Preference blog. His challenge this month is to take a drink from those years that yielded few respectable cocktails, but many that were bright, sweet, cloying, or just downright horrid, and to rework it into a drink that should see a revival.

In a way, I was spared by most of these drinks, as my journey into cocktails started around the time of the current cocktail revival. In fact, my first cocktails were probably made around the same time as the inaugural MxMo event. However, one of the first cocktails that I ever made was the White Russian, and so it seemed fitting to focus on that particular cocktail.

Created in 1949, probably by Gustave Tops, the Belgian barman responsible for the Black Russian, and later launched to an almost iconic status by “The Dude”, this is a cocktail that really isn’t all that bad. I for one am not opposed to a cocktail that takes the place of my dessert as long as it still remains balanced, and this seems a perfect candidate for the task. And as luck would have it, a viable rendition is currently being served at one of my favorite bars in town, the Bayou Oyster Bar.

As many people know, I am not a huge vodka fan, and since part of my goal was to cut the sweetness of the drink and maybe add a little flavor to it, I chose to go with a coffee infused bourbon as my base spirit instead of the vodka present in the Oyster Bar’s version (Sorry Jim). So here you have my twist on the Black Drop, an updated White Russian for the 21st century.

The Bourbon Black Drop
1 1/2 oz coffee infused bourbon (I used Knob Creek Single Barrel)
1/2 oz Coffee liqueur (I used Starbucks coffee liqueur because I had some)
1/2 oz Creme de Cacao
Heavy Cream

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What is a Lambic???

Lambic is a brewing style that traces it’s roots back over 400 years, and was probably one of the first “beers” to come out of ancient Mesopotamia. In contrast to the sanitary techniques used by brewers of traditional ales and lagers, which are fermented by carefully cultivated strains of brewer’s yeasts, lambic beer is produced primarily in the Senne valley region of Begium, and utilizes spontaneous fermentation of the wild yeasts and bacteria present in the area. It is this unusual process which gives the beer its distinctive flavour: dry, vinous, and cidery, often with a sour aftertaste.

Like the beers of old, most lambics are brewed from a combination of malted barley and unmalted wheat, the latter often being up to 40% of the mash bill.
Although ancient brewers would simply leave their beers outside in the breeze to spontaneously ferment, now days it is understood that a majority of the yeasts and bacterias used in Lambic production reside within the walls of the breweries. Lambics are also only produced between October and May, limiting the amount of contaminants in the beer.

Another aspect of Lambic brewing that differs from ales and lagers is the way hops are utilized. Hops have been used for centuries as a preservative, bittering agent, and to provide great aromas and flavors to beer. With lambics, the use of hops is almost solely as a preservative. Because lambics are usually aged for several years in port or sherry barrels, dry aged hops, which have lost most of their bitter oils, are added to the beer in quantity to help preserve it, while keeping the hop bitterness to a minimum.

There are several different varieties of Lambics, and many offerings are actually blends of casks brewed in different locations.

Pure Lambic
Unblended lambic is a cloudy, uncarbonated, bracingly sour beverage which is generally around three years old. Very few offerings can be found outside of Belgium.

Gueuze
A mixture of young and old lambics that have been bottled. It keeps well in the bottle and a good gueuze will be given a year to referment in the bottle, but can be kept for 10–20 years. Use of grain adjuncts and inoculation is allowed. Bottle aging is the traditional way to make gueuze, but artificial carbonation is not uncommon. Filtration and pasteurization can occur. Gueuze is golden to light amber in color. Carbonation can be champagne-like. They are sour, acetic and sometimes harsh, usually without bitterness.

Faro
Historically, a low-alcohol, sweetened beer made from a blend of lambic and a much lighter, freshly brewed beer to which brown sugar, caramel or molasses was added shortly before serving. Modern faro beer is still characterized by the use of brown sugar and lambic, but is not necessarily a light beer. Modern faro is bottled, sweetened and pasteurized to prevent refermentation in the bottle. Examples are produced by Cantillon, Boon, Lindemans or Mort Subite.

Kriek
Lambic refermented in the presence of sour cherries and with secondary fermentation in the bottle results in kriek. Traditional versions of kriek are dry and sour, just as traditional geuze.

Fruit
A Lambic which includes the addition of raspberry (framboise), peach (pêche), blackcurrant (cassis), grape (druif), apple (pomme), banana (banane), pineapple (ananas), apricot (abricotier), plum (prunier), cloudberry (plaquebière), lemon (citron), blueberry (bleuet), or strawberry (aardbei), as either whole fruit or syrup. Fruit lambics are usually bottled with secondary fermentation. Although fruit lambics are among the most famous Belgian fruit beers, the use of names such as kriek, framboise, cassis, etc., does not necessarily imply that the beer is made from lambic. Many of these fruit beers produced in the US are typically artificially sweetened and based on syrups instead of fresh fruit, resulting in a taste experience that is quite remote from the traditional products.

So there you have it, now you know what a Lambic is, now go out and try some. Cheers!

Beer of the Week: Goose Island Pere Jacques

Chicago’s Goose Island, one of the countries premier breweries, is cranking out some fantastic brews, and the other day I picked up a 2011 vintage of their abbey ale, Pere Jacques. Brewed with loads of malt and Belgian yeast, Pere Jacques is an 8%abv, wonderfully fruity, malty ale, with complex flavors standing just a little higher than most.

It pours reddish amber, with a quickly receding head. The aromas are thick with sweet malts, plums, dried figs, and yeasty esters. On the tongue, the taste is dark, sweet and fruity, spice notes pairing nicely with plums, grapes, apple, toffee and honey. Hop bitterness is present to balance out the sweetness, but the aromas are kept muted in the background along with the alcohols. The finish is sweet with a mid level of carbonation for the style. I think this is a fantastic ale that would pair well with rich meats, or stand in for a glass of vintage port, post meal. Cheers!

[rating: 4.5/5]

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